Color Correcting Interview Q&A w Mathias Alan
How long have you been a makeup artist? Briefly describe that services you provide, and for whom.
I first started playing with makeup when I fell in love with the art of “showgirl” illusion back in 1994. My good friend, who I had danced with in high school productions, had taken a job in Vegas as a showgirl and I was mesmerized with watching her glue on 3 pairs of eyelashes, placing glitter on her lips, and adding rosy red cheeks. I shortly thereafter, fell into performing as a female impersonator in Southern California and I learned even more tricks and illusion based art from some incredible fellow performers. As I like to recall, I learned how to build the skyscrapers first (men into women), and then how to build the small houses (models for catalog, headshots, weddings) next by learning how to tone it down for everyday clients. But truth be told, without the art of illusion in my background, the art of my makeup skills wouldn’t be as unique, eye catching, and long lasting on my clients today.
What are the basics of color theory as they apply to color correction?
There are a few basic skills that you should have when correcting discoloration on a face. Someone with rosacea who has a very pink and often times red overall pigment in their skin should definitely have a yellow (slightly orange) based pigment in their foundation and concealer. Early on I was taught that using a green primer or loose powder would cancel out the red undertones, however it seems to make the skin much lighter than is flattering.
Someone with a birthmark on their skin that is violet or plum in color pigment should really try to find an orange based concealer to camouflage the area before foundation is applied like POISE Makeup Blue Corrector 1. The same holds true for a tattoo that is filled in with black ink alone. The purple hue of the birthmark, or tattoo, is most easily corrected by dabbing an orange creamy pigment like POISE Makeup Blue Corrector 2 on top of the area and then lightly layering foundation to match the rest of their skin over and on top of the mark.
What are you trying to achieve with color correction?
By color correcting certain areas of the face, I am trying to achieve a more even complexion overall so that the entire face (or neck, arms, shoulders, and even legs at times) will look completely flawless and the same shade.
Are there some basic rules for dealing with different skin tones (fair, sallow/yellow, dark)?
The most basic rule I have to share, as well as a pet peeve for anyone doing their own makeup or other makeup artists, is “match the foundation color for the face to the clients’ neck color up under their jawline.” We all know that sunlight tans the skin, but the underside of the neck up to the jawline is shielded from the sun by the chin. It seems that about 85% of the women I work on have a natural face color that is tanner than their necklines. So the foundation color choice that I make is primarily based on the fact that I want it to match the significantly less tanned neck color that is under their jawline.
How do you address the following problem areas:
Blemishes
If the skin is riddled with acne, I prefer to spot conceal the blemishes first with an opaque creamy concealer and airbrush a water based foundation over the entire surface second. The airiness of the airbrush technique is the best bet for a skin that has surface disruptions like acne. I absolutely love Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Airbrush Foundation for this.
Dark circles under eyes
Middle eastern or East Indian women tend to have the darkest circles under and around the eye area. It is simply a part of their genetic disposition. I stay away from yellow or pink based concealers, and go directly to my orange based concealer that I referred to when covering tattoos or birthmarks. I like to use POISE Makeup Blue Corrector 2.
When I was first starting out, I used a bright orange lipstick and it totally did the trick. However, the consistency of a concealer is thicker and lasts longer.
Broken capillaries under nose
Use a salmon colored concealer which will help hide the blue undertones in the capillaries.
Birth marks, other discolorations
See above, question 2
Are there specific products that you like to use in color correction? Do you prefer creams or liquids?
I prefer to use a cream concealer as the spot cover, it is richer in pigment and hides the color imperfections much better. I like to use MAKE UP FOR EVER Full Cover
But I also use liquid foundations to blend onto the remaining skin without having to cover it up so completely.
The Make Up For Ever camouflage palette has all 5 color correcting creams you will need for spot correcting.
For a true artist, the Make Up For Ever Flash Color palette is a must have collection of color with 12 cream grease paints that can color correct, alter, or enhance any skin tone.
Do you take different approaches to color correction based on the media involved? (TV, Photo Shoot, Fashion)
I certainly use a different approach when working on television, photoshoots, or red carpet. When doing a client for television, I must use a light hand. In the age of hi def cameras, every single layer or spot of concealer is painfully visible. Color correction is much more difficult and should be kept to a minimum. When bronzing the skin, I must also pay close attention to the ears, the back of the neck, the chest and even the hands because the slight variation in color can be seen through a hi def camera lens. I like to use TARTE smooth operator Amazonian clay finishing powder in Bronze or SMASHBOX Halo Hydrating Perfecting Bronzer because they are booth loose powders and much easier to blend and layer than pressed powder versions.
When doing a photoshoot, I can usually pull out all my tricks of the trade. Thanks to photoshop post work done on the computer, the skin can be layered to color correct any imperfections and then smoothed out in post.
When I work on a celebrity for a red carpet premiere or event, I tend to vacillate between my television hand and my photoshoot hand. Depending on the client and the time of the event, day or night, I can apply a natural looking foundation and strongly play up the eyes and lips, or I can go even farther and contour and highlight the cheekbones, nose bridge, jawline, and even cleavage with a product like SMASHBOX Step By Step Contour Kit. During the day I prefer to stay softer in my application because the sunlight tends to read like a hi def camera on television. On the other hand, at an evening event where the paparazzi will be using flash photography, the application can mimic more of an editorial photoshoot with fuller coverage and more contouring because the flash from the camera tends to soften the artificial illusion of makeup overall.
Does black and white photography require a different approach?
In some ways, it’s much easier to do makeup for a black and white photography session because bright colors don’t read on film. Pink, Tangerine, and Melon almost all look like the same shade of taupe. Navy, Plum, and Chocolate all look like similar shades of grey. So I tend to stay in the neutral palette of white, cream, bone, taupe, burnt orange, rust, and brown. When shooting in black and white photography, the key is to bring out the client’s natural bone structure with neutral colors, as well as emphasize the eyes with individual eyelashes and a strong eyeliner.
How does your approach vary when working with men rather than women?
When I work with male models or actors like my client Joel McHale of THE SOUP on E Television, I use a softer hand for applying base. Usually a tinted moisturizer works best if the skin is dry. I feel that mens’ skin can often times be less discolored than womens’ because it is genetically thicker and made to stand more extreme conditions. In many cases, I only use a primer like BECCA Line and Pore Corrector Primer if they have dry skin and SMASHBOX Bronzing Photofinish if they have oily skin. Then I prefer a concealer around the eyes and nostrils like TARTE Dark Circle Defense Under Eye Corrector, and a loose powder to set their skin like YOUNGBLOOD Hi Def Loose Powder.
In a single sentence, give your best advice for color correcting.
Be aware of your clients’ tan lines and overall hue when matching foundation to their face, always try to create one seamless color from forehead to chest.
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Mathias Alan
Thank you for your time and your interests in my work… have a wonderful day.
“FIND THE BEAUTY WITHIN YOUR SOUL”
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